Pyongyang

Shopping options are limited. A few department stores exist but have very few things of interest. Locals only shop from specialty stores selling groceries and other basic items. Arts and crafts and souvenirs can be purchased in places such as tourist sites and hotels. Some extremely sought-after North Korean souvenirs are metal lapel badges depicting the faces of one or both of the two Kims. North Koreans are required to own these pins; as such they are categorised more as national necessities, and therefore not readily available to westerners, whom the locals often seem to think would never want such a thing. In actual fact, an easier place to find these interesting North Korean items is eBay, or similar auction sites. There have been reported cases of these pins being seized by customs at departure.

There are several government-run markets, selling a wide range of foods, as well as consumer goods such as shoes and DIY materials. The prices are extremely low by western standards, and the sellers are extremely honest- red-coated officials watch their every move, especially when selling to a foreigner! These markets are identifiable by their blue, semispherical roofs. However, apart from Tonghil market, foreigners are treated with, at best, mild suspicion. Indeed, do not be surprised if you are gently, but firmly, escorted from the building. There is no harm in this, providing you comply.

Tonghil market is perhaps the most interesting, as there are many relatively wealthy Koreans shopping there. Koreans are issued State provisions, which vary according to their job/status. Anything else they are free to buy- either at official won exchange rates about 1/30th of the black market price, again, depending on their status, or at the free market price, which usually means they can afford almost nothing. The average wage is around £1.5/€2/$2.5 a month, which results in most people's total dependance upon the State.

You need won to shop at these markets, and do not take photos! In Tonghil, be aware that some theft does occur, although it is minimal.